Going solo in Cambodia!
Going solo in Cambodia!
26.08.2012
Well, I guess I've been just having too good a time to blog about it. Well, actually I feel like I'm working a 9-5 again. I'm currently in Phuket Thailand but I'll update you on all that next time.
So last we met I was in Laos still finishing up a bike trip, the next stop was Cambodia but before that, I chilled out in Don Det for a few days right beside the border. Don Det is more of a chilled out version of Vang Vieng...though it will most likely catch up in the coming years. Don Det is just one island of hundreds and is known for its white river dolphins. I'm gonna just give you a few pics and move on as we have a lot of ground to cover.




These kids had their own homemade horses (Knights of Nigh! Ha - for any Monty Python fans)

I had already organised my visa in Phnom Penh so it was just a matter of logistics. I decided to take a bus to the border and cross. The crossing was quick but the wait on the other side to get a bus took hours, this is why a book is necessary for travel!
Immigration Office
The border crossing.
Finally, we were herded onto a bus, and off we were going. I had decided to stop off at Kratie and check it out as it was on the way and I was in no rush, plus it would give me time to plan out where I wanted to go in Cambodia. As soon as I got off the bus I was rushed by a lot of guys selling their hotel. One sounded ok and I agreed to come to check it out...it ended up being up like 6 flights of stairs and right down the back. I'd probably get lost.. it was a huge place. I checked out a lot of places and finally found something reasonable. A view from my balcony
This is the balcony.. lol
I liked the reflection ok...
Kratie was a riverside town, it had a central square market and it seemed the town then spread from there. Here are some pics of the area..
Central market area. 





Main street by the river.
No matter where you are there is always a temple... 




To tell you the truth I didn't do too much in Kratie. There is a place you can go and see the white river dolphins like in Don Det but I read about it costing like $20-30 when you get to the river etc which seemed like a bit of a ripoff and I was still on tight arse budgeting. I decided to amuse myself and head out at night which was eerie, to say the least, the place was dead at night but so busy during the day. I think places like that are the creepiest at night...like schools or carnivals. Here are some pics 
The marketplace from other pic at night. 
I found one little store open.
Well, Kratie got old after a few days so I decided it was time to head to the capitol making my way down south to where I had heard there were nice beaches. I organised a bus for the next day (always called a VIP bus). I'm loaded in and for once it seems not to be overcrowded but almost as soon as I start enjoying the extra room we stop and another minivan pulls up and they have a people exchange from theirs to ours, then we pick up a family in suburbia...I'm now cramped up with no room to move with 16 people in a 12-seater van. The van driver is also a maniac which doesn't help the matter...in the middle legs squashed together in a car filled only with locals I sit in agony for 6 hours. Oh and mid journey the driver runs over a dog and continues on casually at breakneck speed. We also pass a crash with bodies covered by bamboo mats, feet sticking out, and a van with an impact shattered windscreen :/
So I reach Phnom Penh central, by then people have been dropped off and I enjoy maybe the last hour in normal comfort. As soon as I get out I am barraged with tuk-tuk drivers trying to get my fee... I have a price of a dollar in mind to get where I need to go and see who takes it... I'm off and out, heading to the hostel I had looked up (cheapest I could find) that had dorms, it is mostly rooms in Cambodia like a lot of sth east Asia.
The hostel was cheap but I was on the top floor below a tin roof which was loud when it rained and an oven when hot. Spent a while there enjoying the new people and cheap drinks
After a while, I thought I had better do something more than drink and party.
I jumped on board with some other travellers and shared a tuk-tuk to see the killing fields. The killing fields were quite a somber experience. You are handed a headset for an audio guide which you take to areas matching the recording with the number of the spot. The strange thing was that, unlike other places I have visited, it is all quiet. The reflection of what the guides are telling you in that somber silence is quite something. Time and time again I have been reminded in my travels of how damned lucky I am to of been born in Australia. That we have no land borders with other countries. The atrocities that the Cambodian people had to endure were truly horrific and really not that long ago (Although in this particular case, it was more civil war). Which means that a lot of people still affected are alive today, including those that committed the war crimes. I don't have any photos as I thought it was bad form. Speaking of bad form, as soon as you come out of the place you are approached to come to a shooting range (By the way the rumour is true, you CAN shoot a cow with a bazooka!).
I decided it was time to move on and head south to Kampot. Usually, people bypass Kampot and go straight to the party area of Cambodia which is Sihanoukville. I had read up on it though and decided that Kampot is a good central hub for the places I wanted to visit and I could day trip to Sihanoukville. I'd had enough of the party vibe, and needed to recharge. The bus there was smooth sailing and again I was accosted with offers of tuk-tuks and hotels, they even have pictures on a big piece of cardboard. I chose the first reasonable looking one and was on my way, it had been a long ride but at least it was the big bus so not squishy. The next day I looked for something cheaper and found a gem. An Asian Arabian penthouse of a dorm! Plus the place had a pub and a free mini golf course, I was sold!
Kampot was quite small and not so touristy which was a good change. I hired a bike and planned out a few days of exploring caves, salt fields, and abandoned French colonial estates. Here are some pics...




I got lost here, which trail do I take to the cave I was sure to find... a huge pig and her piglets watched me with interest...
Finally, I found a cave (I found out later that it was not the one I was looking for but ended up better). As soon as I turned off the engine of my motorbike I had three kids offering their tour services through the maze inside the cave. I took them up on it as it seemed they'd be coming along hassling me the whole way anyhow. I ended up paying them $1 U.S. each, Cambodia predominately uses American dollars, and are preferred. This cave had this part of it where a huge part of the ceiling inside was suspended in the air by not much support .. 

Here was a spooky picture that I got in the cave, can you see what I see?? It's like mirroring the way I'm taking the photograph...
The kids had showed me a large hole where they found a lot of bones from people the Khmer Rouge killed, it is rumoured the cave is haunted...
Coming back to town I finally decide to take a shot of the beauty store signs, dunno if it's just me but this wouldn't encourage me to come in...
and they are everywhere and worse than this sometimes, lol... here are a couple more of the town.. 

Next day a quick ride to Kep for a dip in the ocean.. 




The next place was the Bokor Mountains. This was the area where the French had built their church and housing, even a casino. All these buildings are now just dilapidated shells of their former beauty. They decided to build here due to the cooler climate that the altitude brought. It was a great ride of winding roads through the jungle I guess, as it is reported that tigers still roam wild there and I did not get eaten. The church and colonial buildings had an eerie presence, the moving mist only adding to it. At one time I could not see more than three metres ahead of myself the fog was so thick.





On the way back I thought I might go find the Zoo and see what it was like. I had read that the zoo was quite bad a few years back and that WWF had intervened and has been helping the zoo get back on track. Health and safety were obviously not their first priority. Reaching the zoo I rode up to the parking area and proceeded to walk around. So in most zoos, you don't feed the animals but here I don't think they really cared or would sell you food. Also, the cages were right in your face too, so you could stick your hand in and pat that cute monkey if you wanted, and the same went for the tiger and lion cages. You could stick your arm in at any time you were that close, actually a kid did come and pat the tiger while I was there... I'm gonna hope that he was a worker there.
I mean like you wouldn't want to give that a pat, lil kitty ![]()





Now this was hard not to stick my hand in and pat... 

and I was actually about to risk a pat on the fence till I saw this
Later on down the path I saw this, which made me wonder how secure the lion cages were..
ty
If there was a mastermind in the zoo, perhaps even behind the jailbreak just pictured...it'd be this fella 
Here's the local party animal stayin up all night, bit bright today? 









Some had the zoo life figured out... 


Lastly a jaunt down to Sihanoukville to check out these beaches, they were ok...plus a fishing village on the way was nice.



I'm gonna leave it here as I have a lot more to cover, and I don't want to take up your whole day ;p
More to come!
Posted by CrackerjackHobo 22:56 Archived in Cambodia Tagged fields cambodia kampot angkor wat bike killing reap scooter siem phnom penh Comments (3)
It was the best bus I've been on yet, well done Bas! Though I could have done without the karaoke music for over half the way :/ The karaoke music is constant on these busses and that is the hardest part of keeping sane on the long trips... it's difficult...





Now throughout this cave the guide kept showing me these rock formation that looked like Elephants, well they did kind of but not as much as a formation I discovered...see if you can see it in this picture... it's carrying a tree in its trunk.
Don't see it? It's layered so the first layer is the head then the other layers of the body come behind. The head is looking straight on with the trunk in the middle holding a trunk..well...anyhow I claimed the discovery so if you go..you know.
When we were leaving there were locals being strange in the bushes, upon further inspection we found that they had a bag of snakes and lizards with them as we ran when they released them haha
Next stop was this strange holy cave which had carved stairways looking much like that famous picture or type of picture with endless cycles or stairs. 


When we were leaving we spotted some monks for some amazing pictures and a great chat. 


This Gem supplied by the great Bas. 



From there we continued on to the next destination. The road along this section of the ride was the worst with wet muddy slippery dusty roads for hours. By the end of it with muddy bikes and legs we had the road start to form into something rideable again. After this haul we decided we were due for a stop, finding a local shop in the town we stopped off. They were busy removing shells from peanuts for the day it seemed. We stayed for a while getting coffee and lollies (sharing with the collection of kids around) and chatting/laughing. 











The kids were a crack-up 

Soon we head off before we can't ride anymore, they even offer us to sleep there haha the hostel we found was not short of beer or views... 
That’s the Frenchy we picked up along the way. 
But 20 km out my tyre decides now is a good time to go flat. Luckily there were two bikes and we go find the next town and a mechanic, we ride a km or so to get help. After a while of speaking with multiple people, I am told I need to bring the bike here, so I get dropped off and start the walk back with the bike. Finally, get there and get it all fixed after hours of waiting
... though entertained by the locals helping us out the time passes quickly. Then it's a night ride to town which is hard with bugs in your teeth and no lights on the streets, but we make it. 





They also had Bears there, dunno why but hey, they seemed comfy hanging in a hammock... 
At the bottom of the waterfall there was this track and I could not help but have to climb it as it did become a bit of a climb...I mean...what if it was amazing up there! I could not let that pass and find out later...
This is all I got
The way home... 

The army looked more intent on how they looked 
Finally we continue on and do a stop off for food and toilet...I enjoy the view...










So now that you know the layout of the place let me tell you how it all works. So Vang Vieng is pretty lawless. A southeast Asia western town with a bought off sheriff, acting on behalf of the town's bar 'n' hotel owner. The place is full of restaurants with "happy" menus. What this involves is some psychedelic additive (Usually magic mushrooms) added pretty much to any food or beverage you want. As I mentioned previously, there are a lot of stories of Australians dying (other nationalities also I'm sure). This is due to NOT drinking with any moderation at all whilst floating in a big tyre tube down the Mekong River. Here is the place you get your allocated tube
After this you are responsible for keeping this tube and returning with it or paying the loss of tubes cost which is like $5. That may not seem much but it is a lot here and really, the people that steal them (local kids) are in on it all, and I'm sure get a commission of sorts... many a time I had to yell threats to get my tube returned (Not that I'd be able to swim at that stage, hence why people die!). So the thing is when you get to the river you tube/float and then get pulled in by numerous bars throwing ropes to you on the riverside whose first order of business is to make you swig a bottle of Loa Loa whiskey...which is disgusting but free all over...because it's disgusting. So you can imagine that with this and also drinking buckets of spirits you become pretty inebriated, pretty quickly. At the bars, they have these zip lines out into the water which is another reason why people die. There are dangerous rocks all over under the water people crack their heads on. I remember seeing a sign saying something like "If you jump you will die...seriously...we love you." as warnings, but if you decide to use the zip line and jump they will do nothing to deter you. I guess the sign is clause enough for deniability of harm?!
That is us on the furthest right
You can see how close we were :/
but they don't come with bad views... VV has amazingly beautiful scenery 

Anyhow what the first picture there of the restaurant shows is TV screens and lie down tables. They have Friends and Family Guy running 24/7 on the TV screens there so that you can veg out and dribble on the floor in TV bliss. I might say now that the people serving you seem like they'd rather stab you cut you up and serve you to the next vegetable that comes in the door. They must hate all the mad tourists they get coming through.
These are everywhere, they are for the spirits so they have a place to stay.
Someone important I'm sure.
... So Vientiane had a lot of storms when I was there, seemed to be like clockwork. One night there was a particularly big electrical storm so I went out on the balcony to try and get a lightning capture. I was very surprised AND lucky to of gotten this pic! 
Here are a couple of pictures found along the way..


Soon I stopped at a shack to grab a picture
I had some lychees I had been carrying around and this looked like a great setting to relax and have some refreshing fruit (I'd been craving Lychee's for a while now). I should mention that by this stage any form of fashion was gone. I had an odd assortment of clothes picked up from my travels, which was based more on 'if the price is right' than anything else, lol... so this is like..backpacker chic I'll call it haha 

The day is quite warm and even though we all look ridiculously good looking, we are sweating man stink from every orifice! Sooo when we came across a river with someone washing in it, it seemed like a good idea to go down for a dip...
So In we got except for Jordi white. It was enjoyable up until the stage that we got out and asked ourselves what that smell was...hmm smells like poop...Oh, ok it's the river. Oh well, we just choose to move on and not think about it too much, lol. Next, we go and get some food, not being able to find the place recommended we try a market and find nothing worthy of the word "meal". We spy some fruit stands tho
and decide we will all just get lots of fruit...for some reason, we all end up with a watermelon each (it was hot!). I have a lady cut me open a coconut, they really are great for hydrating (Thanks Brennan)
. So we have all this fruit, then we notice a somewhat eating stand on the side of the market. One of the Spanish comes back from a reconnaissance mission and informs that there is rice! So we decide that that is more appetizing than the fruit, so off we go. Now the place is not your 5-star establishments...
But when you’re hungry and well you just have to give things a go sometimes and was I surprised... it was VERY good!
It was very spicy, so we were glad we got the watermelon!
Well onwards we continued, here are the pics 








Arm farting!!
Soon we were at a Hmong village and the girls tried on some traditional clothing. They had a hard time with having bigger breasts than they were made for, lol 


The school..
The ghost gate...
we got yelled at a little for going too close...I'm sure it was for our own benefit!
The end was a waterfall (which I never saw, they wanted to charge us and we thought we'd send one up with a camera instead ;p)



This is what I climbed and slipped and sweated for... hardly worth it :/ 
But what the hell right, if those little fuzzy Ewoks can do this then surely I can! Now I have a lack of photos mainly because I was obsessed with getting the perfect feet picture to send to my family. We have this thing recently where you take a picture of your feet where you are and post it on our family chat...anyhow I have like a million pictures of my feet zipping along but failed to really get anything of the great views from the line haha AND in the end I only got a few usable shots...
it's very hard taking photo's whilst zip lining and I paid for it by getting zip burns on my head...I had quite the collection by the end (If you’re not catching it, I put my head on the metal wire as I was scooting along it, therefore, ripping the flesh from my scalp). Now one could say that you could avoid this by wearing a hat, which is true but I was always adamant that I would not do it again. Well in the end I decided to wear my cap and ingeniously wear it backwards when zip lining...this worked well for a while until I forgot to turn it and lost my cap mid-way watching it float to the ground...
The tree house was nothing short of amazing, a lot better than I had expected. It was multi-storied the bottom was the entrance via zip line on one side and on the other side the bathroom with toilet, shower, and sink. Up the stairs, you enter the main level with a sink with drinkable water on tap along the trunk and flooring surrounding beds and a table and stools. There was another level from here which seemed to be the penthouse where you could set up another bed. Here are some pics 



The trees are massive and well suited to houses but all are different and designed for that specific tree. The other thing we could see from our tree was a MASSIVE tree that housed the largest amount of bees I have ever seen, those things hanging from the limbs are hives! 
We travelled to its base the next day to have a look 

they are leaving and will be back in two hours or so...they have their own camp a little way off. Eventually, they come back and bring us dinner, it's really quite nice and ample supply to fill me up. They leave for the night letting us know they will come for us in the morning, also mentioning that if we get a bad storm with big winds they will also come for us and to be ready as trees may fall...or something along those lines. That night it is soooo hot in the tent it's almost unbearable until the winds start to pick up, soon I see light flash across the sky and distant thunder. Hot and bothered I crawl out to watch the incoming jungle storm, it was pretty amazing watching over the jungle canopy in pitch-black darkness as the storm rolls in...and it was big! So windy that I heard another tree fall a short distance away. Constantly I thought the guides would be coming to take us but nup they never came. 



Not only do you get drenched but tarred also, and every other dye colour with powder thrown at you, cars are also subject to decoration
and if you're wondering how this could happen
I would get mobbed by kids looking like this at times also haha



In the procession I notice some fellows I'd seen before 
...I couldn't put my finger on it at the time but it soon came to me, they are the evil Wing Kong of Big Trouble in Little China!
We happen to get there at sunset
It was beautiful, only enhanced by watching the monks come down to swim and play. I had a dip myself in the water there amongst some rocks... it was clean and refreshing. To get back, we found a shortcut along a bamboo bridge
Finding that we had to pay on the other side we bargained half the price because we only used oneway, lol.
Well this was a very bad decision and I paid for it for the next 3 days! (Immodium is my new best friend) The food alley was part of a larger night market open every night it seemed and it actually has some very nice stuff...will buy something on my way back there I'm sure. 



























The next day we continued to Huay Xai, both trips taking about 10 hours or so. The boat was extremely loud if you are more to the rear so there was no conversation. If you do travel on one of these boats the seats move so move them to face each other and you have a footrest for a more comfortable journey (pro tip!). Here is the boat there
This was the second one
And here are some random pics from the boat...My destination is Huay Xai where I will be doing the Gibbon Experience living in the trees and zipping along the jungle canopy 


















